Nativity in one of the shops on San Gregorio Armeno.

PRESEPE NAPOLETANO

November 16, 2023

The Christmas tree in many parts of the world is the symbol of Christmas. Not in Napoli. Here we have a very old and deep tradition: The Presepe, the Nativity.

There’s no Neapolitan house that doesn’t have their own version of the Presepe: small or large, simple or elaborate, modern or classical. In fact, one of my oldest memories as a child was of my grumpy uncle who turned into a happy child when he showed you his presepe, ‘his masterpiece’, which he displayed the whole year round in the living room.

Some people go mad decorating their homes and lawns with Christmas lights and decorations. Neapolitans go crazy with the nativity.

We need to go back in history to really understand the deep connection between this tradition and the Neapolitans. The 17th century is the golden age of the Presepe, however the origins date back far longer, as they were first documented in the 11th century.

The first known church to display a Presepe was in the 15th century when San Domenico Maggiore church displayed the Nativity scene inside a cave made with real stones rumoured to have been brought from Palestine. Since then until now every church in Naples displays its own Presepe.

The figures of the Neapolitan Presepe include the traditional statues of the Holy Family and also of the ‘Pastori’, which are made up of the shepherds, as well as lots of characters found on the old streets of Naples such as fishermen, merchants, bakers and ordinary men, women and children. Eventually these Presepe became status symbols where aristocrats and rich merchants began to commission pastori with their own features to display in their extravagant nativity scenes and a whole industry sprung up to meet this growing demand. Many workshops started to specialise in making these statues and you can still find them in the old town on the street known as San Gregorio Armeno. Even King Charles III of Bourbon was a fan who actively encouraged the practice. The 17th century was when the technique of making the statues was perfected. The faces were made with terracotta, which could give them a realistic range of facial expressions, then glass eyes were added. The bodies were constructed of bound string, richly dressed in expensive fabrics.

Today in the shops on San Gregorio Armeno you will find statues of figures from contemporary life such as footballers which include of course Maradona, the royal family, celebrities from the world of music and film and even pizzaiolo’s (pizza makers). Here you can also purchase the scenes to place them in which often resemble Neapolitan alleyways. If you go in the month of December expect to encounter large crowds. Be warned, it gets very busy!.

Nowadays, some of the most magnificent Presepe in Napoli are the ones exhibited inside the Museum of San Martino and at the Royal Palace on Piazza Plebiscito. The most spectacular one in San Martino is known as Presepe Cuciniello named after the nobleman who commissioned it in 1879 and it still sits in its original position. This Presepe is a unique example of the technology of its day. It sits inside a cave behind huge glass windows and a machine recreates the different stages of the day, from sunrise to dusk and throughout the night-time, all in a matter of minutes. The Presepe includes all manner of figures and every type of animals, as well as exquisitely crafted fruits and vegetables and meats and fish.

See more in the section I wrote about San Martino here.

*Presepe Cuciniello*, dated 1879 in San Martino.

Part of the collection of the Presepe section of the museum in San Martino.

The Presepe on display at the Royal Palace, belongs to the Banco di Napoli and it is a collection of several Neapolitan artists, like Giuseppe Sanmartino (sculptor of the breathtaking Cristo Velato in the Sansevero Chapel). It is a 17th century Neapolitan scene in which all the figures wear oriental and elegant clothes and which even includes Vesuvius in the background.

If you want to make your own Presepe, these are some of the characters of the tradition which you must be include in your scene. Benino (or Benito) is the young sleeping shepherd, which represents the awareness of the birth of Jesus. The vintner, to represent the wine, the blood of Jesus. The fisherman, always a reference to the Gospel. I due compari, two men at the tavern playing with cards, who represent Carnival and death. Last but not least i Re Magi, the three kings, which according to tradition, arrived in Jerusalem with gifts for the baby Jesus. For those fanatical about Presepe, it is very common to place three small kings in the background at the start of the festive period as they are coming from far away and then every few days they are replaced with bigger and bigger statues until January 5th when they finally arrive at the stable to visit baby Jesus, whose statue is only put in the scene at midnight on Christmas Eve.

Benino (or Benito), the sleeping shepherd.

Details of the precious clothes of some *pastori*.

As I previously mentioned, you can visit the San Martino museum and the Royal Palace Presepe, but the best way to experience the real Presepe Napoletano is to visit ‘Christmas Alley’ San Gregorio Armeno. This is one of the alleys in the old town, famous for all its shops where they sell and make all the statues of the presepe. You can find here any type of statues, from the cheapest (only few euros), to the most expensive (thousands of euros). You can also find elaborate pieces such as waterfalls with real water, mills, ovens, and all you can put in a nativity scene.

The famous Christmas alley, San Gregorio Armeno.

The amazing shops in San Gregorio Armeno.

You don’t need to be religious to appreciate The Neapolitan Presepe. When you walk around San Gregorio Armeno and all the other Presepe in Napoli, I’m sure you will be amazed by this fascinating world of tradition and modernity and by the the skills and the dedication of the artists who have created these wonderful things, generation after generation. These shops are open all year round and every January these presepe makers start to plan and work on the new presepe for the next Christmas.

One of the oldest workshops in San Gregorio Armeno.

You can make your own presepe with some barn/villages.

Barns like a traditional Neapolitan house.

Vegetables & fruits. All hand made and painted.

The incredible expressivity of the pastori in the San Lorenzo church.

Details of the pastori in the San Lorenzo church.

Underground Napoli: The Metro.

June 4, 2018

Napoli is not only a unique city on the surface, but also going into its depths you can discover another fascinating city. Under Napoli, there is a universe that goes from the greek foundations through the roman ruins and up to the modern day Metro. I will write about the complex city of catacombs, tunnels and aqueducts in my next post, but In this one I will talk about the metro underground train system, or metropolitana which is how we call it in Italian. Considered one of the most beautiful underground systems in Europe, the metro has received a lot of recognition all over the world, including pieces in the British Daily Telegraph and America's CNN.

You might say "but it's only a metro station!". Well, it is far from being an ordinary metro station. it's stations are definitely different from any other city in the world. Every station of the Linea 1 is a unique contemporary 'art gallery' with each station displaying contemporary art from some of the the most recognized and celebrated artists of the present day. A labyrinth of tunnels and art galleries with references to the history and culture of the city.

Linea 1 (Line 1), which connects Vomero with the centre of the city, started in the 1970's but was often interrupted due to earthquakes and archealogical finds. In 1995, The Comune di Napoli (Council of Napoli) decided to create spaces of "beauty" in the every-day-neapolitan-life. The new metro stations offered the perfect space in order to make people more engaged to the contemporary artistic scene, so it was called the 'Stazioni dell'arte' (Stations of art). Along the stations of the metro there are more than 200 works of art created specifically for those spaces.

The Municipio station, started in 2003 and still going on for over a decade is definitely the most problematic and challenging of all the stations of the metro. The station is now opened but there are still archealogical works still going on due to the incredible and enormous number of archeological artefacts found in the area. In fact, this area was in roman times the port and during the centuries the sea has reseeded where now the square is. Archeologists have found the remains of a thermal spa, the old fortifications of the city, a tower of the Aragon era, a palace and even five roman ships. Many artefacts are on display inside the station.

The first station opened was Vanvitelli station, at the top of the Vomero hill and one of the busiest stations of the metro. Here artificial and natural light combine with signage in shades of blue, purple, yellow and grey. The corridors that take the people from the streets to the trains are decorated with works of art by Neapolitan artists.

In 2001, more art stations were opened including Museo, Salvator Rosa and Quattro Giornate.

The Museo (Piazza Cavour) station, the stop for the Archeological Museum, was a project by the architect Gae Aulenti. The theme is related to the museum and the artefacts inside: corridors and tunnels in red and glass harking back to Pompeiian villas, a copy of the Hercules at rest, made by the Art Academy nearby. The corridors that lead from the train to the museum are darker with the photographs of roman statues by the artist Mimmo Jodice. At the entrance of the station is a copy of the roman statue 'Laocoön'. In the other corridors on display are artefacts found during the building works of other stations.

Salvator Rosa station is the perfect example of the connection between the metro and its surroundings, where even the buildings outside have been decorated in the style of the station. Here many important Neapolitan and Italian contemporary artists have collaborated, just to name a few; Ernesto Tatafiore, Gianni Pisani, Mimmo Rotella, Mimmo Paladino and Renato Barisani. Mosaics, volcanic stones, red, blue and brightly coloured tiles and golden marble welcome every day, workers, students and tourists. The entrance is through a playground where there are art installations by Alex Mocika, Augusto Perez, Renato Barisani, Lucio Del Pezzo, Nino Longobardi, Riccardo Dalisi, Ugo Marano. From here the entrance to the station is through a huge pyramid in glass that references the guglie, the columns with saints in the city.

Quattro Giornate station is on the eastern part of the Vomero, where the old stadium is. Outside the station are statues in bronze and steel of athletes by Lydia Cottone. The name quattro giornate is related to the historical event of the uprising of the Neapolitans against the Nazi's in September 1943. At the entrance of the station there are statues by Nino Longobardi which remembers this episode.

In 2002, two more stations were opened: Rione Alto station and Piazza Dante.

The Piazza Dante station is another busy station that serves the historical centre. The architect Gae Aulenti created a station which echoed the 17th century square. The result is quite impressive; the architect created many entrances to the station from every side of the square, transparent walls contrast with the volcanic stones of the square created by the architect Vanvitelli. Once inside the station, the artist Joseph Kosuth welcomes people with his neon quotes on the walls by the famous writer Dante, who the square is named after. While going through the escalator there are works by Jannis Kounellis and Michelangelo Pistoletto.

Entrance to the ticket hall with neon quotes by Dante.

Materdei station was opened in 2003, and is another interesting metro station. Outside is an area completely closed to the traffic with a playground, a little park and many art installations. Inside the station are many symbols of Neapolitan culture and characters from folklore of the city. Platforms are decorated with wall drawings by Sol LeWitt and photographic installations.

The Universitá station which serves the university area was opened in 2011 and is a project by the architects Karim Rashid and Alessandro Mendini. Here different materials are used, such as glass, steel and mirrors, with pink, purple and lime green colours. Going down to platform level the space is created with digitally designed tiles and a light box with the words of the florentine poet Dante. Again, past and present, Renaissance and contemporary collide.

One of the most impressive and my personal favourite is, Toledo station designed by the Spanish architect Óscar Tusquets Blanca, opened in 2012. Not a coincidence that the architect is Spanish as from the station it is possible to get to the Spanish Quarters (Quartieri Spagnoli) one of the oldest parts of the city. It is a journey into the depths of the city (50 meters), like into the depths of the sea. The outside of the station is Via Toledo, the main shopping street of Napoli, here is the statue of The Knight of Toledo by the artist William Kentridge.

The internal space of the station is decorated with volcanic stone and big orange circles with the first floor down echoing the ancient town walls of the Aragons. There are mosaics by William Kentridge (Naples Procession) picturing the opening of the first train station in the city in 1906. As you go deeper down into the station you come across another important element of the city, the sea. On the second floor down, the walls become dramatically calm with the colours of blue and white . The more deeper you go the more bluer it gets becoming dark blue like the abyss of the ocean. Looking up you can admire the impressive cone, Crater del luz, crater of light that with a display of LED lights gives the impression of the waves. The artist Robert Wilson created the panels of the corridors to the platforms named "By the sea... you and me", which are series of lenticular photographs of the sea in movement. The artist Achille Cevoli created a panel dedicated to the builders who made this station possible entitled Men at work.

The mosaic 'Naples Procession' by William Kentridge at Toledo station. — The mosaic '*Naples Procession'* by William Kentridge at Toledo station.

Toledo station: from the ground down to the sea.

"By the sea... you and me" by Robert Wilson at Toledo Station.

The newest station is Garibaldi. This is the connection at the main train station and was a project by the French architect Dominique Perrault. The space is all in one structure, full of lights where the escalators and the people look like they are suspended on the mirrored walls. The internal part is decorated with shiny panels in steel. In here are two installations by the artist Michelangelo Pistoletto. In this station the platforms are inspired by the London Underground.

Exit to the street from Garibaldi station.

Mirrors and lights take the passengers up to the surface at Garibaldi.

The metro, like in all other cities, will always be extended and improved, connecting more areas with the centre of the city and it will give more chances for artists to collaborate in a unique project. The metropolitana of Napoli has became famous all over the world. Neapolitans and tourists love it and of course, artists enjoy the opportunity to create unique spaces that can inspire the travelling public. It is actually a very romantic notion to think how these works of art connect with so many people, wherever they are going to and wherever they are coming from, on Napoli's unique Metropolitana.

For further info about timetables and stations click here in the section TRAVEL INFO.

WHAT'S ON IN DECEMBER - outside Napoli!

December 15, 2016

December 2015 decorations in Salerno, Luci d'Artista (Artist's Lights).

In my previous blog I mentioned all the activities going on in December in Napoli. But there are also many more things to do in the areas outside of Napoli.

One of the most popular and amazing experiences are the lights in Salerno. Salerno is a city about an hours drive south of Naples. It is also has a mainline train station. It's more than just a city with standard Christmas decorations. Artists Lights (Luci d'artista) is an event that has been going on for many years. The whole city is decorated with amazing light displays which last from November 5th until January 22nd. It is very popular and so very busy, but it is definitely worth the visit!.

The old town turns into a wondrous labyrinth, a secret garden of magical trees with flowers coming out from the windows of the houses, and flying carpets hanging above our heads. There is a park which is transformed by famous scenes from the Disney movies. Alice in Wonderland, Pinocchio's whale, Cinderella's pumpkin coach and the stunning captain Hook's galleon. Describing it doesn't do it justice, but I strongly recommend going.

For more info about Salerno and how to get to it, check their website out - Comune di Salerno

This year there are also new Christmas markets and a presepe (nativity) created completely in sand, a giant ferris wheel and several concerts. As in the past, the decorations follow a theme and this year the theme is 'The Christmas, The Myth, The Dream and The Time'.

Sorrento is a popular holiday destination in December as well as in the summer. I'm not surprised because Sorrento is charming and elegant all year round. The city at Christmas is absolutely stunning, starting from the Christmas tree in the main square, piazza Tasso and all the decorations around the restaurants, bars and alleys and the cloister of San Francis. There are many events, concerts, street food stalls, Christmas markets and much more. Also very atmospheric are the classical and jazz concerts in the Cathedral and in many other churches. For the full program of events check the website of the Comune di Sorrento.

Pompeii is not only a historical place to visit for the roman city, but during Christmas the modern town hosts events and concerts with some big names of the Neapolitan music scene. There is also jazz, world and mediterranean music, as well as exhibitions of presepi, ancient roman cooking demonstrations, carols from the Renaissance times and visits to Babbo Natale's (Santa Claus) house. All the events are for charity to help raise money for the people who's homes were destroyed by the earthquake in central Italy this year. For more info & contacts visit the website of the Comune di Pompei

If you haven't visited the stunning Royal Palace in Caserta this is a good time to go. The admission fee will only be €3 from the 7th of December until the 6th of January. During this period there will be an amazing light show through all the palace including the fountains and lakes made by the artist Francesco Capotorto. Info here - Reggia di Caserta.

On the island of Ischia, tradition and modernity meet. There will be music on the beaches, Christmas carols in the old town, artists performances, living presepi and codfish will be cooked on the streets. Don't forget that Ischia is famous for its spas since the Roman times. It could be a good present to yourself! For more info check the official website of the Comune di Ischia.

If you are a Christmas market lover you shouldn't miss the ones around the Campania region, in the other towns and villages in the countryside and along the coast.

Bacoli is a lovely city located about 15km west of Naples and will hold a Christmas village in the centro storico, with handicraft shops, food and local wine stands. There will also be a Babbo Natale house and street artists and music sessions.

The lovely medieval village Sant' Agata dei Goti, near Benevento, is ready to welcome tourists by lighting up it's Christmas Grotto, where all the small yards, gardens and houses will reveal their secrets and mysteries through the night.

At the magical castle of Limatola, near Benevento, there is a Christmas market where there are stands with local products, food, home decorations, nativity scenes, presepi, antiquities and much more. The market will be open every day from 10 in the morning until midnight.

As you can see, there is a great choice of atmospheric events in all the Campagnia Region and most of them are free. What more can you can ask for?. The food and drink are heaven and in every place there is something that you will never ever find anywhere else. What are you still doing at home?. If it is too late for this year, it might be a good idea for next year. Travelling is always a good present. And if you travel to Campania, it is even better!

WHAT'S ON IN DECEMBER?

December 1, 2016

Napoli is a great city to visit during the Christmas holidays. Of course, it's good to visit anytime of the year, but in December there's an amazing vibe. If you are going, or thinking about going to Naples in December, here is all the info on what's going on in the city in December. If not, well, maybe now's a good time to plan a trip for next year!

You can feel Christmas in every corner of the city, from San Gregorio Armeno to the promenade. This year more than ever is going to be stunning. First of all, there are going to be many activities from the 8th December, the official date for the opening of the season.

This year the main attraction is the giant 'N'albero, a Christmas tree formed of three terraces and more than 30 metres tall, situated at the Rotonda Diaz by the promenade. In the bottom section which is free to enter, there are art galleries, shops, restaurants, a bistro and an american bar, where it is possible to taste any kind of food, from the traditional neapolitan to sushi. At the top section there is the breathtaking panoramic terrace overlooking the bay of Naples. There is an admission fee for the top section which has not been confirmed, but will be around €8 and will be open from 10 in the morning until 10 at night. It will be accessible by lifts. During the weekdays it will be possible to attend yoga classes, live music sessions and other various events and will be visible from all the gulf and the islands. It will be open from December 8th everyday until February 8th.

Decorations all around Napoli: via dei Mille.

Not only the promenade is going to shine but also the old town (centro storico). Here, on December 10th there is going to be "The Night of Art", which In Italian is Notte d'Arte - 2016 NutriMenti, culture e cibo nella storia dei popoli, which literally means 'feed the mind' and will be a series of cultural and gastronomical activities of every aspect of the neapolitan tradition and history and will take place in all the squares, shops, museums, churches and cloister gardens all night long. Particularly interesting are the non-stop concerts at the church of San Pietro a Majella.

Do you need another reason to visit Napoli?. Well, I will give you another one; all these activities in the Notte d'Arte will be free and I bet, very busy. But that's the beauty of Napoli: every experience is best only when you are sharing the joyful moment with other neapolitans and visitors.

There will be Christmas decorations at the entrance of the train station in Piazza Garibaldi where there will be an exhibit of the first presepe completely in ice. It will be on display from December 6th until January 8th and will be absolutely unique in all the world. The ice presepe has been carved from 20 tonnes of ice.

There will be also be a tour around the secrets and mysteries of Naples, looking for ghosts and legends in the heart of Napoli. Tickets for the tour are €8 (€5 reduced, free for kids under 12 years old) and will start at the church of Santa Maria la Nova.

Loads of things to do then!. I hope you will enjoy your Christmas in Napoli and come back very soon!