San Gennaro : the story and cult of the Neapolitan icon.

When you come to Napoli, the face of San Gennaro (after Maradona) is everywhere, in graffiti, statues, posters and banners.  

Saint Gennaro (Saint January) is the patron saint and protector of Napoli and Neapolitans have a very deep love and affection for him. 

We celebrate the feast day of Saint Gennaro every year on September 19th. 

The origin of the name Gennaro, which is very popular in Napoli, comes from the latin Ianuarius, which means “consecrated to the god Janus” and often referred to children born in the month of January. 

Street art inspired by San Gennaro. This graffiti by the street artist Jorit is in the Forcella area, not far from the Cathedral.

Portrait of San Gennaro in San Lorenzo church.

The history of the devotion towards this Saint is shrouded in mystery. We don’t know much about him, but what we do know is that he was a bishop and a martyr, possibly born in Napoli or Benevento around 272 and died in Pozzuoli in 305. 

According to the legend San Gennaro was bishop of Napoli and was arrested in Pozzuoli during the last persecution of Christians by the Roman Empire, where he was protecting his fellow christians.

There are differing stories of his death. One version was that he was captured and torn to pieces by lions.  Another was that he was tortured but it had no effect, so he was thrown into a furnace from which he came out unharmed. Another version says that he was decapitated at the Solfatare crater.  Some of his remains were stored, and his blood kept in two ampules, which are now kept in the Duomo (Cathedral) of Napoli.

The cult of San Gennaro is a mixture of religion, tradition, faith and folklore. 

In 431, King Charles II Angiou of Naples ordered a very precious relic bust to be made by the finest french goldsmiths, in order to keep the skull and the two ampules of blood of the saint inside.

In 1305, San Gennaro’s bust was put on public display, to be venerated by the Neapolitans. King Charles’ son Robert, further ordered another handheld case to be made, just to keep the two ampules of blood inside. It had a glass window at the centre so you can see the ampules of blood and that is how we see it today. 

The fame of Saint Gennaro is related to the miracles made by the liquefaction of his blood. According to old documents, during the famine of 1389, there was the very first miracle of the liquefaction of his blood, which coincided with the ending of the famine.

Between 1526 and 1529 there was a terrible plague in the city so the Neapolitans made a vow to build a Chapel in his honour so that he might protect them.

One of his most famous miracles performed was that during a procession with his statue Vesuvius erupted but the lava miraculously didn’t touch the city. 

Neapolitans then built the San Gennaro chapel in the Duomo of Napoli, which was consecrated in 1646. It is richly decorated with marble, gold and silver, as well as with busts and paintings illustrating the life and legends of the saint, created by many artists of the Neapolitan Renaissance and Baroque with sculptures by Cosimo Fanzgo, frescoes by Domenichino and paintings by Jusepe de Ribera. Around the Chapel there are almost 50 sculptures and statues of San Gennaro and other co-patron saints made by many prestigious European goldsmiths.

At the top of the entrance there is a sign in latin, which reads ”To san Gennaro, citizen and protector from wars, plague, hunger, and the fire of the Vesuvius, in virtue of your miraculous blood”.

The altar of the San Gennaro Chapel in the Cathedral of Napoli.

On the central altar, the handheld case where the two ampules with San Gennaro’s blood are kept.

On the right altar, the Spanish painter Jusepe de Ribera with the story of Saint Januarius Emerges Unscathed from the Furnace, 1646.

On the opposite altar, painting by Domenichino, 1641.

The frescoes of the dome are painted by Domenichino in 1641. and then completed it by Giovanni Lanfranco in the Paradise scene at the centre in 1643.

The miracle of the liquefaction of his blood happens three times a year: on the first Saturday of May, September 19th and December 16th. 

The ceremony of the miracle is held in the Duomo (Cathedral) by the Bishop of Napoli and it is a very important event for the Neapolitans in a spiritual and a social way. The relics and the container with the blood are stored in the Chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro.  The bishop takes the container and a crowd gathers around to see if the dried blood contained inside liquifies. It doesn’t always happen but if it does, it’s a good sign for the city, especially it means the Napoli football team might win the league or the champions league!

If you want to attend the spectacle just make sure to get there very early in the morning as it gets very crowded very quickly. 

San Gennaro obelisk (guglia) in Piazza Riario Sforza.

Small shrine to Saint Gennaro.

Two characters in the Neapolitan culture: San Gennaro and Caravaggio. The graffiti is by Roxy in The Box in piazza Riario Sforza.

The old gate of the city dedicated to San Gennaro in via Foria, on the border of the old town.

Many scientists have tried to study the miracle, analysing the dried blood to see if it loses viscosity by movement, shock or vibrations, like for instance the way tomato ketchup, which when poured starts off as solid and then becomes liquid.

Of course,  it’s all about your personal beliefs. For those who believe it is very profound and moving event. For others it’s just a tourist attraction. 

Near the Duomo (Cathedral), it is also possible to access the Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro. Here you can find the astonishing treasure collection of Saint Gennaro which includes hats and necklaces decorated in gold and precious stones, donated over the centuries by Kings, Popes, Emperors, famous noblemen and normal people. The collection is believed to be more valuable than the British Royal family’s collection.

You can also visit San Gennaro’s catacombs, the underground necropolis under the Incoronata church in Capodimonte. This is believed to be the place where the Saint was buried and it has become a place of pilgrimage over the centuries.

To know more about the catacombs and to book your visit click here on the San Gennaro Catacombs official website

Art crafts inspired by the imagine of San Gennaro very popular in the Neapolitan shops.


You can see how much Neapolitans are devoted to San Gennaro, he is everywhere. He is one of the most recognisable icons of Napoli, along with Vesuvius, Maradona and Pulcinella. 

San Gennaro pensaci tu” (lit. “San Gennaro, take care of it”) whenever you have a problem, a pain, even if you want the winning numbers for the lotto, San Gennaro can help youIt doesn’t matter if you believe it or not, Saint Gennaro will always be there to be a comfort, and a hope for those who ask for help. 

The cult of San Gennaro’s is also celebrated worldwide among the Neapolitan diaspora. In fact one of the most important is in New York.

Despite wars, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and pandemics Neapolitans always feel protected by San Gennaro. Always and for ever.

And who knows maybe he ’s got something to do with the Napoli football team winning their 4th scudetto in 2025!


You can visit my page to know more about the history of the Duomo Cathedral of Napoli.



Official website: Cappella di San Gennaro.

To book your tickets for the Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro 

Via Duomo 147 -  80138 Napoli

Tel.: +39 081 449 097 / Museum:  +39 081 294 980  info: info@tesorosangennaro.it

Email: booking@cappellasangennaro.it

Cathedral - Free entry. You need tickets for the San Gennaro Chapel and the Museum of the Treasure of San Gennaro.

The San Gennaro Chapel is free every first Sunday of the Month.

Opening hours: 

Cathedral:  Mon - Sat 08.30 - 13.30 /  14.30 - 19.30 / Sun 08.00 - 13.00 / 16.30 - 19.30

San Gennaro Chapel: Mon. & Sat. 09.30 –13.00 (last admission 12.30) / 15.00–18.00 (last admission 17.30)
                                     Tues. - Fri.: 09.30–13.00 / 14.30–18.00 (last admission 17.30)
                                     Sunday: 09.00–13.00 (last admission 12.30) / 16.30–18.00 (last admission 17.30)

Museum:  Every day 9.30 - 18.00 (last admission 17.00).

Nearest metro station:  Linea 1 - DUOMO or MUSEO.

 









The Girl From Naples Is Back!

Back on the road again!

Hi there! Here I am again! I have just realised that my last blog was dated 2018! .

We all know very well, the last two/three years have been very difficult. We had a global pandemic that has changed not only our lives but also our way of travelling, so keeping up with all the restrictions and rules have made writing a travel blog very challenging, almost impossible and quite frankly, very depressing. So I am sorry for this long absence. I will try to write more often because there is still so much more to know about my wonderful city and region.

I have to say I really do miss travelling. Properly travelling, discovering new places, new countries, new cultures. It’s one of the things I have been missed the most. I have been travelling back and fourth between England and Italy for family reasons and had few outings in Italy without going too far. But I so miss that excited spirit that comes with a new adventure! As I said before our way of travelling has changed and so did we. A lot of people were (and still are) very scared to go to a foreign country, without knowing if they have to quarantine, having tests, etc. Let’s face it. It also has been very expensive and quite stressful to travel. Book the right test for all the family, get the green pass, quarantine in a hotel, ‘no you might not need to quarantine’, etc. How many times did you hear all this?

My very first holiday after two years, one of my favourite destinations: the island of Ischia (August 2021).

Fear also changed everything. I went to Ischia last August and even though it’s still my favourite, it was strangely too quiet, not as buzzy as it used to be. Most of the tourists were italians or local.

Thankfully, the situation is getting better everywhere. Now when you come to Italy, you don’t need to quarantine or show a negative test anymore. Since April 1st, all the travel restrictions have stopped. Hooray!

Even wearing masks indoors and having to show your green pass (the QR code showing you had two jabs and a booster) when travelling or indoors restaurants and bars has stopped.

If you test positive, you still need to quarantine until you have a negative result and must wear a mask.

Hopefully, even those few restrictions will drop by the end of April/beginning of May, so we can all enjoy the summer, the very first summer without stress!

I can’t wait to write more about my region. This summer, to celebrate the end of the pandemic, there are a lot of events and new places opening to visit for the very first time.

A place I definitely will write about is the island of Procida that this year has been nominated as Italian Capital of Culture 2022. Many events on the land and sea have been organised and a taste of the flavours of the Mediterranean cuisine. Definitely a place to visit!!

Finally also in Napoli, tourists are slowly returning and actually, for the summer, many hotels and b&bs are already fully booked!

Of course, please consider that rules to visit museums and art galleries are changing on a daily basis so I will try and keep all information up to date. It is recommended to book ahead of a visit to a museum as now in many places there are limited spaces for visitors. Remember also that from April to October it is free entry in all museums every first Sunday of the month.

It’s so good to know that we can start to think about travelling again and return to our ‘normal’ life.

Napoli is finally open to the world once again! Welcome back! Bentornati!

Welcome back to Napoli!

A Neapolitan very committed to social distancing!

Pizzeria da Michele: London vs Napoli.

The life of a blogger is tougher than you think!.  Oh, yes it is!.  Just imagine, all the time going around the city, finding new places to see and trying new pizza restaurants.  It's tough!.  For my followers I would do anything!.  For this blog I am going to an old traditional Neapolitan pizzeria that has just opened in London.  I am talking about L' Antica Pizzeria da Michele.  

LONDON - Antica Pizzeria da Michele, 125 Stoke Newington Church St, Stoke Newington, London N16 0UH. 

LONDON - Antica Pizzeria da Michele, 125 Stoke Newington Church St, Stoke Newington, London N16 0UH. 

NAPOLI - Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale 1, 80139 Napoli.

NAPOLI - Antica Pizzeria da Michele, Via Cesare Sersale 1, 80139 Napoli.

You might think 'well, there are many pizza restaurants in London, why is this one so special?'.  Well, first because it makes an amazing pizza and I can say this as a Neapolitan and secondly because it is one of the oldest pizzerias in Napoli, opened by Michele Condurro in 1870.  The Condurro's pizza making origins go even further back as the grandfather of Michele was a pizza maker at the court of the Bourbons.  In 1844 the grandfather made a pizza for the Russian Tzar Nicholas II and his wife Alessandrina Feodorwna, who had come to visit king Ferdinand II.  For this occasion he made a special pizza just for them: the cosacca, half marinara half margherita.  The legend says that they enjoyed the pizzas so much that they gave the Neapolitan king a present of two bronze statues, now in the gardens of the Royal Palace in Piazza Plebiscito.  The rest is history.  Since this time, the Condurro family have only made two types of pizzas: Margherita (mozzarella cheese, tomato, oil and basil) and Marinara (tomato, garlic, oil and oregano). 

Pizza Marinara in Napoli.

Pizza Marinara in Napoli.

In the movie Eat Pray Love, Julia Roberts appears eating a delicious pizza in the Pizzeria da Michele.  You might of liked or not liked the movie, but honestly I can't disagree with Julia, 'It is a moral imperative to enjoy a pizza in Napoli!'.  

The menu at Antica pizzeria da Michele in Napoli.

The menu at Antica pizzeria da Michele in Napoli.

The following step is to open a restaurant in other places in the world, so more people can enjoy amazing pizzas.  After Tokyo and Rome, London is next!.

LONDON - Pizzaioli (Pizza makers).

LONDON - Pizzaioli (Pizza makers).

NAPOLI - Pizzaioli.

NAPOLI - Pizzaioli.

In cosmopolitan London which has a huge choice of international cuisines, it is a challenge to open a pizzeria with just two types of pizza.  It seems though for the expat Neapolitans they finally have a proper Neapolitan pizzeria in the UK and apparently, British people seem to appreciate it as well.  Probably the time of the 'pineapple pizza' is fading into the past.  More people around the world are well travelled now and appreciate authentic food and that is why Londoners are flocking to eat the proper Neapolitan Pizza.  Just a few weeks ago, in the London Evening Standard Newspaper, Gordon Ramsey expressed his opinion regarding the 'pineapple pizza', "an absolute no-no on the Italian dish".  Neapolitans have the same opinion.  Pineapple pizza is just wrong!.  Personally, I don't want to create a debate about it, but as a Neapolitan, I can understand why we are so passionate about it.  We take very seriously our products from Napoli.  We also want you to enjoy the best pizza available and not a second best experience.

Hungry Londoners.

Hungry Londoners.

And speaking of authenticity, if you want to go to L' Antica pizzeria da Michele in London, be aware that the pizzeria like the Napoli one is always busy and you can't book a table in advance.  The system is 'first come, first served', so I suggest you turn up as early as you can.  For the London one there is an app to tell you when it is your turn in the queue.

The pizza oven in Napoli.

The pizza oven in Napoli.

Some people say that the real secret of the pizza is the water used to make the dough and that's why Neapolitan pizzas are so unique, however the London one is very close to the original.  The oven and the chefs were brought from Naples and the pizzas have the same authentic flavours.  The tomato sauce is deliciously fresh and the smell of the basil is amazing.  Ah!!, it really seemed to me that I was in Napoli...except for the weather!.

This is where Julia Roberts sat in Naples. 

This is where Julia Roberts sat in Naples. 

London pizza before.

London pizza before.

and after.

and after.

Spot the Julia.

Spot the Julia.

This says it all.

This says it all.

 

L' Antica Pizzeria da Michele

London Opening hours:  12.00 - 23.00 (Sunday closes 10.30) Closed Monday.

Napoli Opening hours:    11.00 - 23.00 Closed Sunday.